Revista Gastronómica Digital
image

Síguenos en:

  • facebook
  • twitter
  • youtube
  • googleplus

Actualidad

Ángel León expande su mar

Luis Tusell
Luis Tusell 29/10/2014Comentarios

El chef, de la mano de Carme Ruscalleda, presenta su propuesta para Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona

“¡Que suene la música!” Así dio por iniciada su nueva etapa profesional Ángel León este martes por la noche en el hotel Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona. El Chef del Mar desembarca en una gran capital por vez primera y desde su Cádiz natal, tras haber hecho de la investigación del fondo marino su gran apuesta gastronómica. El prestigioso hotel logra reunir a León y a Carme Ruscalleda, convirtiéndose en un destino gastronómico de gran atractivo.

Pere Monje, Hideki Matsuhisa, Nuria Gaig, Ángel León, Sergio Torres y Carme Ruscalleda en la fiesta de Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona.

Ángel León no es un hombre de muchas palabras, si bien su aportación a la cocina sí que las merece. Él ha hecho del pescado de descarte una lujuria culinaria en Aponiente, su restaurante estrellado en el Puerto de Santa María. Ha convertido el plancton en un sazonador que inunda de mar sus platos. Y ha dado uso culinario a algas, plantas y pescados que hasta ahora no llegaban a nuestras mesas. “Hay cuatro o cinco chefs que están haciendo cosas distintas en la cocina, y uno de ellos es Ángel León”, comentaba Albert Adrià. Desde hoy, el pequeño de los Adrià comparte ciudad con el Chef del Mar, y compañeros ya consolidados en Barcelona recibieron este martes por la noche a Ángel León en la fiesta de apertura. Estaban Fina Puigdevall, Carles Abellán, Hideki Matsuhisa, Pere Monje, Albert Raurich…

“Cocina suculenta y de sabor” es la propuesta de Ángel León para su BistrEau, el restaurante que capitanea junto a Ismael Alonso y en el que lleva trabajando meses. Ahora es ya una realidad. Su mar, ese Atlántico tocado por el Mediterráneo, se abre ahora al pleno Mediterráneo. Hasta eso se ve en el interior de la cocina, con un cartel en el que se lee “Donde hay patrón no manda marinero”, y con una campana de barco que se toca al iniciar cada servicio. El mar en pleno Paseo de Gracia.

De aspecto más informal que su antecesor en el hotel, el Blanc, en el BistrEau se pueden degustar desde sus embutidos marinos, a su versión crujiente de la tortilla de camarones, pasando por las croquetas rellenas de calamar y tinta o la espectacular ensalada caprese, en que la burrata lleva también erizos de mar. El concepto bistrot del mar lo lleva a la excelencia de una forma imaginativa y elegante, pero a la vez atractiva para todo paladar. Seguimos con el selecto picoteo a través de un surimi de pez mantequilla con acento cítrico o del cazón adobado, francamente, el mejor adobo que he probado jamás. Divertido y sabroso también el matrimonio de la anchoa y el boquerón envueltos en una fina masa de calabaza. Y emocionantes ya platos de maestro, como el arroz con plancton o los tallarines de calamar con fondo de cebolla al oloroso y una holandesa con su tinta. Talento puro, jugando con texturas, grasas, proteínas…

DSC_1020

Gérard Sintès, director de Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona, rodeado por Ángel León y Carme Ruscalleda.

Una propuesta que al gastrónomo que haya estado en Aponiente le transportará hacia el Puerto, y al que no, le obligará a buscar fechas en su agenda. BistrEau no es Aponiente, pero sí su esencia. Y busca atrapar en sus redes al barcelonés y a los visitantes de la ciudad, en busca de emociones a precios razonables y en ambiente desenfadado. Hay menú a mediodía a 35 euros y el precio medio de carta ronda los 50. Para finales de noviembre habrá una tercera opción, que será la Mesa del Chef, un menú degustación frente a la cocina para los que quieran vivir la experiencia más semejante a estar en Aponiente.

Mandarin Oriental, Barcelona reúne a dos de los cocineros de más talento del panorama nacional. Porque Carme Ruscalleda sigue con su biestrellado Moments con Raúl Balam ya de vuelta al frente. Este es el restaurante gastronómico del hotel, con Ángel León apuntalando la propuesta culinaria a través de BistrEau y también encargándose de otros espacios que se desarrollarán en los próximos meses, como el Jardín Mimosa, el Banker’s Bar, los desayunos y el servicio de habitaciones.

 

22 Comentarios

  1. Isaac dice:

    todo un fantasma ángel León.. Salir en la tele y ganar dinero sin dar palo al agua es lo que le gusta
    Tendríais que ver en las condiciones que tiene a los cocineros en prácticas en pocilgas mientras el se llena los bolsillos de pasta

  2. craticuli dice:

    Siempre es interesante la diversificacion de la oferta, y evidentemente la de Angel en Barcelona en singular y diferenciadora.
    Por cierto, ¿este año no tenemos la PORRA DE LAS ESTRELLAS MICHELIN 2015?, es todo un clásico.
    Un saludo.

  3. API SPEC 5CT dice:

    It even woke me up from sound sleep! It got to the point where I wasn able to keep anything down. Not even water. ,ugg adirondack boot tall,sac lancelIf nursing homes or hospitals don sound like options you would approve of, consider home health care to be a viable choice. Let the senior citizens in your life retire comfortably in their own homes,and they won leave you with that feeling of guilt that occasionally comes from lack of commitment. On Tuesday there is more aggravation between her and

  4. API SPEC 6D dice:

    Changement d’heure alors ne le monde de la sac Vanessa Bruno,API STD 650, rien ne peut tre toujours le focus dans les yeux des gens, mais le mrier clbre marque a rinitialiser le disque,API 570, aprs la premire apparition sur le march, il a t aim par les femmes de tous ges,API 510, ils apprcient l’aspect de le sac main spcial et ainsi la bonne qualit les rend tonnant, le mrier cabas Vanessa Bruno boutique Shepton Mallet a devenir propagation de plus en plus large, les gens ont leurs sacs main de

  5. ASME A112.19.12-2006 dice:

    How did Patty Hearst cross the line from being a perfect girl victim to an unforgivable girl perpetrator? Around 9 pm on February 4th,ASME B89.1.10M-2001 (R2011), 1974,ASME B30.3-2009, the 19 year old heiress to the Hearst family publishing fortune was kidnapped from her apartment in Berkeley, California, where she sat with her fianc in her blue bathrobe. After ten weeks of captivity in the hands of the radical Symbionese Liberation Army (SLA),ASME PTC 19.3 TW-2010, Hearst was photographed parti

  6. AATCC 194-2008 dice:

    I don want to get that big”. As a theoretician, Da Vinci often exposed his way of thinking and his artistic principles. I used to be a big Tom Cruise fan, but the crazier he gets, the less I want to see anything with him in it. He had his sights set higher for his son,AATCC 20-2010, wanting him to pursue something nobler,AATCC 112-2003, more respected,AATCC 184-2010, such as a career in the army or government service. Worth area. ASUS has more than 13,600 employees around the globe with a world

  7. ASME A120.1-2008 dice:

    In addition to the delightful secrets shared daily and the hip, flip and chatty editorial voice of the company, there is one element that truly defines the newsletters and the entire My Little Paris universe: Kanako’s art. Her winsome parisiennes lend warmth to the company’s look and feel and contribute significantly to a brand image that is more BFF than BIZ.. There was a red tile roofed house in Coral Gables,ASME BPUV1, a one story home in Pinecrest, and an apartment just south of Killian Park

  8. ASHRAE 145.2-2011 dice:

    Light shield above ice machine lacks end caps. Ansul lines and ventilation hood filters above deep fryers not clean.Chipotle Mexican Grill of Colorado, LLC3852 State Route 31,ASHRAE F39-2009 (SI), LiverpoolCooked chicken wings stored in cardboard box that previously held raw chicken wings (voluntarily discarded). Raw ground beef stored next to various ready to eat foods in reach in cooler (corrected). That Hollywood considers her a fat actress illustrates further the very skewed perception and e

  9. ANSI/ASHRAE 120-2008 dice:

    It didn follow standards,UL 2361, but that was OK,ANSI/ASHRAE 170-2008, because people could just write websites so as not comply with standards in exactly the way IE didn first blow to Internet Explorer dominance was the release of Firefox. For the first time in a long time, here was an easily usable browser that actually did some things better than IE (that wasn just for Linux nerds [full disclosure: I a bit of a Linux nerd]).Long story short,ANSI/ASHRAE 154-2011, a lot of tech people started

  10. ANSI/ASHRAE 135.1-2011 dice:

    If you chose beverage A,ASHRAE F36-2009 (I-P), congratulations: You just saved yourself a whole lot of money,ASHRAE F24-2009 (I-P), and,ANSI/ASHRAE 130-2008, perhaps, even contaminants, too. But if you picked beverage B, then you’ll be spending hundreds of unnecessary dollars on bottled water this year. Sure, bottled water is convenient,uggs for kids, trendy, and may well be just as pure as what comes out of your tap. Democrats stand for the issues important to American Indians. This showed Indi

  11. ANSI/ASHRAE 35-2010 dice:

    The deep green foliage,ASHRAE F01-2009 (I-P), rounded vase shape and delightful clusters of bright red berries that grace the branches of Burford holly (Ilex cornuta make it a favorite selection in areas where a mid size tree with lots of character will round out the landscape design. The dwarf variety of Burford holly (Ilex cornuta Burford provides lush greenery in smaller scale settings. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 9,UL 2335, and is a robust,ANSI/ASHRAE 152-2004,

  12. ASME I00383 dice:

    The operating profit of the company was E830 million (approximately $1,ASME B30.16-2012,173.4 million) in FY2010, a decrease of 14.3% compared with 2009. The net profit was E600 million (approximately $848.3 million) in FY2010, a decrease of 44.2% compared with 2009.. The spectral analysis was performed on C3 A2/C4 A1 EEG derivations using a fast Fourier transformation in order to compute sleep state specific EEG power spectra as described previously (Trachsel et al,ASME A112.18.6-09, 1994). Sta

  13. ASME B29.8-2010 dice:

    If a friend does something adventurous, you might to be tempted to FOLLOW SUIT, or else you might to decide that adventure is NOT YOUR STRONG SUIT and choose a safer course of action instead. Both phrases refer to suits in a pack of cards: TO FOLLOW SUIT is,ASME EA-1-2009, literally ,ASME Y14.41-2012, to play a card of the same suit as the one that has just been played.. WHAT YOU SOW IS WHAT YOU REAP. RIGHT NOW YOU ARE SMOKING AND ONE DAY YOU WILL REAP THE OUTCOME AND MOSTLY YOUR CHILDREN WILL S

  14. ASHRAE F28-2009 (SI) dice:

    Have students compare their results for each material before and after the dispersants were added,SAE AMS-G-4343A. Ask students to share some of the successes they experienced and some of the possible flaws that they see with these methods. Oil spills are detrimental to the health of marine environments and marine organisms,ANSI/ASHRAE 96-1980 (RA 1989). While peddling the massive reforms of Race to the Top, the administration convinced America of an ailment called “failing schools.” Arne Duncan

  15. UL 1206 dice:

    Shortly thereafter,AWS A5.8M/A5.8, the band recruited former Clay Sun Union and Anti Sense Therapy guitarist/vocalist Jeremy Ives to expand their guitar driven sound. Taking the name “A New Deception”,AWS D8.8M, Aaron, Jeremy,AWS C3.3, Rory,AWS D1.3/D1.3M, and Collin have set out from Murfreesboro,AWS C3.4M/C3.4, Tennessee to perform a powerful mixture of alternative songs that step on the boundaries of the progressive rock sound. With guitar and bass hooks inspired by bands like Incubus,AWS A5.

  16. SAE AMS 5010K dice:

    Was the shock of arrival,ASME BPVHV, the shock of coming from somewhere where everybody around you was recognisable,ASME A15100, the shock of moving to a place where nobody recognised you and you recognised nobody. However, as a child, you have tremendous adaptability and people have different reactions to different situations. “Olympus Has Fallen” tuvo un estreno mucho mejor al esperado con 30,3 millones de dlares colocndose en segundo lugar. La pelcula de accin de The FilmDistrict trata de un

  17. ASME A112.19.17-2010 dice:

    However, as we went there on a Sunday, the shopping mall was closed. We had to walk around the mall building,ASME PTC 30.1-2007, towards the right of the shopping mall to reach La Vallee. On the following mornings, 15 min after arising, the subjects completed a questionnaire consisting of open questions and self ratings on 10 cm visual bipolar analogue scales assessing subjective sleep quality and monitoring whether, and, if so,ASME B30.29-2012, which physical or psychological side effects they

  18. ASHRAE F38-2009 (I-P) dice:

    Pour un lment donn,ANSI/ASHRAE 113-2009, ces isotopes existent en diffrentes proportions. Ces proportions sont quasiment toujours exprimes en pourcentages. Certains isotopes sont trs communs, alors que d’autres sont beaucoup plus rares parfois, tellement rares qu’il est peine possible de dtecter leur prsence. “A grift isn’t fully realized until it is grifted.” della Grema,SAE ARP 4244A, The Grift: Imaginative Futures in Contemporary Fine Art,SAE AIR 5566A, 2104I hope this finds you well. I am Gi

  19. SAE AS 35091A dice:

    Of course, the auto makers are effectively owned by the federal government, so it would be surprising if they weren’t supportive of their new boss. However, they make a good point. Sometimes it is difficult for manufacturers to make the investment in plants and equipment without a federal mandate. Do something fun,ASHRAE 94.1-2010, like dance in the department store (my kids were mortified) or sing at karaoke. Break the illusion of perfection and join the rest of us in the human race.So what are

  20. SAE AS 31571 dice:

    Well,ANSI/ASHRAE 147-2002, lots of brilliant stuff was forgotten during the Dark Ages,uggs fox fur 5531, like the shape of the Earth and how to bathe. In Medieval Europe, touching a sick person was a no no you’d probably feel the same way if 60 percent of the people in your universe died of the plague. So instead of tying an injured artery closed,ASHRAE F22-2009 (SI), the surgeon just burned it shut with a long metal rod. Promotion is one thing that every employee strives for and works hard to a

  21. AWS C7.4/C7.4M dice:

    Encik Razman bin Ariffin serves as Senior Independent Non Executive Director at Malaysia Smelting Corporation Bhd. He was appointed to the Board of the Company in February 2006 as an Independent Non Executive Director. He was redesignated as the Senior Independent Director of the Company and the Chairman of the Audit Committee in June 2010. Previously,AASHTO/AWS D1.5M/D1.5, train accidents were frequent since brakes had to be applied manually on each car by different brakemen following a signal

  22. dallas stars iphone 5s cases away jersey dice:

    Thank you, I’ve recently been searching for information about this topic for a long time and yours is the greatest I’ve discovered so far. But, what about the bottom line? Are you positive about the source?